The temporary shaping of hairstyles lasting for an extended period of up to several days normally requires the use of active ingredients having a fixative effect. As a result, an important role exists for hair treatment agents serving to temporarily shape the hair. Corresponding means used for temporary shaping normally include synthetic polymers and/or waxes as active ingredients having a fixative effect. Temporary hair shaping agents may be manufactured as, for example, hair spray, hair wax, hair gel or hair mousse.
The most important property of a means used for temporarily shaping hair, hereinafter referred to as a styling agent, consists of holding the treated fibers in their newly configured form—meaning the form imparted to the hair—in the strongest possible manner. Mention is also commonly made of a styling hold or the styling agent having a good ability to hold a hair set. The styling hold is essentially determined by the type and quantity used of the active ingredients having a fixative effect, but the additional components of the styling agent can also be influential.
In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents can fulfill a number of additional requirements. These can be roughly divided into the properties of the hair, the properties of the respective formulation such as the foam, the gel or the aerosol spray properties, and properties concerning the handling of the styling agent, whereby the properties of the hair are particularly important. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, lack of stickiness (tackiness) and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling agent should be usable for the widest possible variety of hair types and be mild on the hair and skin.
In order to meet the various requirements, a large number of synthetic polymers have already been developed as active ingredients having a fixative effect for use in styling agents. The polymers can be divided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers having a fixative effect. Waxes are used as alternative or additional active ingredients having a fixative effect.
The application of the polymers and/or waxes ideally results in a polymer film, more specifically a film providing the hairstyle with a strong hold, which is sufficiently flexible while at the same time not breaking under stress. If the (polymer) film is too brittle, it can allow for the formation of film residues which detach with movement of the hair, giving the impression that the person using the respective styling agent has dandruff.
In addition to temporarily shaping the hair, so-called styling, there also often a need to care for the hair, which is frequently stressed or damaged due to external conditions such as sunlight, or hair treatments such as dyeing or bleaching. Hair care means normally include hair rinses (conditioners) and hair treatments as well as shampoos having a hair care effect. The active ingredient having a hair care effect included in these products is a lipophilic raw material, for example oils, fats or waxes. Hair care means have the aim of restoring the cuticle layer of the hair (cuticula), which can become damaged due to external factors. One known ingredient in hair care means such as shampoos and conditioners which is able to repair the cuticle layer is commercially available under the name Crodabond® CSA (company name Croda). It is a copolymer composed of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid. The use of this copolymer in mascaras is described in WO 2012012084 A2.
The impression of a hair care effect can be enhanced for the user if, when applied to the hair, the cosmetic composition generates heat, or rather a heating effect will simply be experienced as being pleasant. Substances used in the cosmetics industry and able to achieve a heating effect are, for example, polyethylene glycol. Up to a certain length, these are hygroscopic and generate heat when coming into contact with water or moisture. Heat-generating compositions including polyethylene mixtures are commercially available under the name XO Therm® (Chemsil Silicones Inc.). These are mixtures of PEG-4, PEG-8 and PVP as well as, where applicable, polypolypropylene glycol. The manufacturer specifies that they are suitable for skin care, body care and feminine hygiene.